How often should you exfoliate?

Most people exfoliate too often. Your skin sheds its top layer by itself, about every four weeks, and slows down as you get older. Exfoliating helps it along. Doing it every day doesn't help it more.

What exfoliating does

Dead cells sit on the surface of your skin before they fall off. When they build up, skin looks dull, feels rough, and serums have a harder time getting through.

Exfoliating loosens them. There are three ways to do it:

• Physical. A grainy scrub or a cloth that lifts the cells off.
• Acids. Glycolic, lactic or salicylic acid dissolve what holds the cells together.
• Enzymes. Plant enzymes, usually from papaya or pineapple, break down the protein in the dead cells. These are the gentlest of the three.

Enzyme Polish uses papaya enzyme with a fine rice powder, so it works two ways at once without being harsh.

How often, by skin type

• Oily or combination skin: once or twice a week.
• Dry skin: once a week.
• Sensitive skin or rosacea: once every week or two, and only with an enzyme, never a scrub.
• Skin in its fifties and up: once a week. Skin renews more slowly, but it also repairs more slowly.

If your skin feels smooth and looks even, you're doing enough. There is no extra benefit in going further.

Signs you are doing too much

• Your usual moisturizer stings when it goes on
• Skin looks shiny and tight at the same time
• New redness, flaking or small bumps
• Products you have used for years suddenly burn

If you notice any of these, stop exfoliating for a week or two. Wash with Milk Cleanser and use a ceramide cream like Barrier Cream morning and night until your skin feels normal again.

Not on the same night as a retinal

Retinal Night Serum also speeds up how fast your skin renews. Exfoliating the same night adds to that, and it is the most common reason people give up on retinoids.

Keep them apart. A simple week looks like this:

1. Monday: retinal.
2. Tuesday: a rest night, moisturizer only.
3. Wednesday: retinal.
4. Thursday: a rest night.
5. Friday: retinal.
6. Saturday: Enzyme Polish.
7. Sunday: a rest night.

If your skin is sensitive, leave a rest night on both sides of the exfoliating night.

How to use Enzyme Polish

Shake half a teaspoon into a wet palm. Rub your hands together until it turns into a light foam. Massage it over damp skin for about 30 seconds, avoiding your eyes, then rinse with lukewarm water.

Use it in the evening, after your usual cleanser. Follow with your serum and moisturizer as normal. Wear SPF the next morning, because freshly exfoliated skin burns more easily.